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Pontiac expanded its sporty car offerings for 1964 with the GTO and 2+2 options. The Goat drew more attention and buyers, likely due to the new Le Mans' A-body on which it was based, its included high-performance 389 four-barrel engine, and its price. Conversely, the new 2+2 was essentially a trim option that added bucket seats, upscale side panels, and a console to the Catalina. Engine upgrades were available for the 2+2 over its base two-barrel 389, but they cost more.
For 1965, however, the 2+2 became a bonafide muscle car. Wearing a revised GM B-body semi-fastback shape, the 2+2 option delivered a 421-cu.in. engine, dual exhausts, three-speed manual transmission, Hurst shifter, 3.42:1 rear gears, heavy-duty suspension, bucket seats, upgraded upholstery, carpet, emblems, "Decor" louvers, pinstripes, lower-body molding, and wheel covers. It added $418.54 to the price of the Catalina sports coupe or $397.04 to the convertible.
ENGINE
The 421 V-8 produced 338 hp and had a 10.5:1 compression ratio. A 356-hp option included a trio of Rochester two-barrel carburetors, the required intake manifold, a large dual-snorkel air cleaner, and a 10.75:1 compression ratio. Producing 376 hp, the extra-cost 421 H.O. Tri-Power featured a more aggressive camshaft, cooling fan clutch, and long-branch exhaust manifolds.
DECODING
Since the 2+2 was an option and not a separate series for 1965 (like it was for 1966), it's not identified in the VIN via its own model number and instead retains that of the Catalina.
The firewall-mounted body data plate includes the model year ("65"), division code ("2"), series number ("52"), body style number ("37" or "67"), assembly plant code, body number for the plant (it does not match the digits in the VIN), interior trim code, upper and lower body paint codes, and convertible or Cordova top color codes. A number denotes the month and a letter indicates the week for the build date. Some plants included a few option listings, but it seems that the 2+2's W51 code wasn't one of them. We've seen it on a build sheet, but not all cars got one and few that did still have it.
Except for some emblems, the front body parts, bumper, and trim items aren't currently reproduced, so keep that in mind when checking their condition on a prospective 2+2 purchase.
A VIN and Information Packet, $85 from PHS Automotive Services' (phs-online.com) will confirm whether the prospect is a real 2+2 or not. You'll be emailed a copy of the dealer order form with the extra-cost items chosen for that car highlighted, as well as a letter decoding the options, a copy of the factory invoice or billing history card, and other 1965 information.
To identify the engine, a two-letter code was stamped on the front passenger side of the block, just under the cylinder head deck. Those that begin with "W" are for manual transmission applications and "Y" are backed by the automatic. The 338-hp engine codes are WG and YH, the 356-hp codes are WH and YJ, and the 376-hp engines are WJ and YK.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
To gain insight into the 1965 2+2, we contacted Jack Anderson of Delaware, who bought his first Pontiac back in 1963 and has owned many since. He purchased his 1965 2+2 (not shown) in 2007 and transformed it into a multiple POCI Champion Award and AACA Senior Grand National Award winner, as well as a 13-second F.A.S.T. car. Jack started the Pontiac 2+2 Registry (pontiac2plus2registry.com) in 2010 and attained a charter to start the 2+2 Chapter of POCI in 2018, of which he's the president.
BODY: Examine the body for signs of previous collision damage and repair. The alignment of the body panels and trim can offer clues, but panel gaps weren't perfect on any mass-produced car. Often, bolt-on panels were exchanged due to rust rather than a traffic altercation.
Areas closest to ground level tend to rust first, such as the lower front fenders, rockers, doors, floors, and rear quarter panels and wheelhouses. Jack adds, "Check the bottom of rear window, especially if it has a vinyl roof."
Chrome-plated rocker covers and air cleaner were part of the 2+2 option. Though this 421 was originally equipped with a four-barrel carburetor, it has since been retrofitted with Tri-Power.
ENGINE: Pontiac V-8s are durable when cared for properly. Nevertheless, over time the rope-style rear main seal can develop a leak, so check at the back of the oil pan. If the seal is bad (and not the pan gasket), it will require replacement and considerable labor to install it. Jack says, "Viton seals are available to replace the rope type." He continues, "If the engine has more than 70,000 miles, ask if the timing chain and water pump have been changed."
The four-bolt rocker covers can also seep oil, and coolant may have dripped onto the valley pan from where the intake seals to the engine's front cover. Check all fluids and scan the bay for obvious issues like crispy wiring. Note the engine's idle quality, listen for odd sounds, and ask the seller about them. Indications of internal engine oil or coolant control issues can be revealed in blue or white smoke from the tailpipes.
DRIVETRAIN: The Turbo Hydra- Matic and the manual gearboxes are generally trouble-free, but parts can wear over decades. Plenty of pros can rebuild them, and kits are available to do so.
A new Salisbury-type Pontiac rear end with an 8.875-inch 12-bolt ring gear and 10-bolt cover was used in the full-size cars beginning in 1965, but it was different from the Chevy 12-bolt. Jack explains, "It's strong but can be problematic if something breaks because, to my knowledge, no one is currently making replacement parts."
The optional wheel, commonly referred to as "eight-lug" outside of Pontiac, featured an exposed finned aluminum brake drum (with cast-iron liner) that dissipated heat faster to reduce brake fade. It was secured to a 14 x 6-inch steel rim via eight chrome-plated lug nuts. A decorative center cap and trim ring were added.
CHASSIS: Though Jack relates that, "Serious frame rust is pretty rare in these cars," you'll still want to check for it just in case, as well as for signs of collision repair. Also examine the front and rear suspension for issues like worn bushings and bent or damaged parts.
Jack reports, "The front lower ball joints for 1965 aren't replaceable, so you had to buy another whole A-arm when a ball joint wore out, but they aren't available new anymore. The 1966 A-arm has the same overall design, and its ball joint can be replaced, so I bought a used set. Then I can install new ball joints and swap them into my '65 when the existing ones wear out."
If you're considering a 2+2 with the coveted eight-lug wheel option, Jack says, "Inspect for cracks in the cast-iron liner of each drum, and for corrosion between it and the aluminum hub. If a white powder can be seen between them, the dissimilar metals are reacting to one another and the drums should be relined to ensure safe braking. There are companies that offer that service."
INTERIOR: Wear and tear on the soft surfaces and most broken or missing parts will be obvious. Also check every system and switch to make sure they all work. If not, figure the repair cost into your offer. Look under the dash to inspect the wiring and the fuse box for potential problems.
Jack adds, "The Deluxe two-tone steering wheel with translucent plastic rim often cracks and it's expensive to have remolded. I've found that the optional Custom Sports simulated wood wheel, which is reproduced, is considerably cheaper to buy compared to having the Deluxe wheel restored."
New rear exterior parts aren't offered either. POCI 2+2 Chapter President Jack Anderson notes that the metal trim panel between the taillamps is often pitted, and having it restored (depending upon how bad it is) or finding a better replacement can be costly.
TEST DRIVE
Test the 2+2 on streets with curves and some hills, as well as on the highway. The engine should accelerate smoothly without hesitation or weird noises, the transmission should shift positively, the rear end should remain quiet, and the car shouldn't overheat. A car of this age isn't going to steer, handle, and stop like a newer vehicle, yet it should at least operate competently.
RESTORATION AND MODIFICATION
Many (but not all) interior items are reproduced, as are floorpans and braces. However, except for rockers and a new window-to-trunk panel, new body panels aren't currently made, so repairing the existing part, or finding a used or NOS replacement, will be required.
Myriad engine components are available for stock rebuilds. For more power, higher flowing four-barrel carbs, aluminum intakes, bolt-on fuel injection, aluminum cylinder heads, headers, roller cams, stroker kits, forged pistons, forged-steel connecting rods and crankshafts, aftermarket Pontiac blocks, and more can be purchased.
Stock manual and automatic transmissions can be rebuilt. Conversion kits developed to install later-model overdrive automatic and manuals into GTOs can likely be adapted for the 2+2 with a bit of ingenuity.
Front disc brake upgrades from 11-inch to at least 13-inch rotors are also available. A selection of stock replacement brake, suspension, and steering parts are offered as well. Revised springs, upgraded shocks, a larger front anti-roll bar, and the addition of a rear bar can improve handling, as can larger wheels and wider, modern-compound radial tires.
The optional tachometer was redesigned for 1965 and retained the adjustable redline feature. A red line was added to the face partway through the model year.
CONCLUSION
The 1965 2+2 arrived as interest in the GTO was skyrocketing. Nevertheless, for fans of high-powered fullsize models imbued with a muscular image, the 421 2+2 delivered on all counts. Hardtops still draw decent prices, but you'll pay more for a convertible and anything with a Tri- Power. Try to avoid project cars that require the replacement of multiple body panels, since hunting for used and NOS ones will get expensive.
ENGINE
The 421 block featured a 4.09-inch bore and four-bolt main caps. A 4.00-inch-stroke cast crankshaft, rods, and pistons comprised the reciprocating assembly. Cylinder heads had 1.92/1.66-inch valves, HD springs, and 1.50:1 rocker arms directed by a hydraulic cam with 273/289-degrees advertised duration. A Carter AFB carb, cast-iron intake and exhaust manifolds, and a breaker-point ignition system were used. The optional Tri-Power H.O.'s 288/302-degrees advertised duration cam was new for 1965, and was also used in the 389 Tri-Power GTO.
TRANSMISSION & AXLES
A three-speed manual transmission was standard and featured a Hurst shifter. The "long tail" wide-ratio M20 four-speed manual was optional, as was a close-ratio M21 (with 4.11:1 gears). The Turbo Hydra-Matic three-speed with 2.48, 1.48, and 1.00:1 ratios was the new and improved optional automatic for 1965. A 3.42 gearset in a new Pontiac 12-bolt Salisbury-type rear axle was included with the 2+2 option, but 3.23 gears were installed behind the automatic. Additional ratios were offered with all transmissions, and Safe- T-Track (limited slip) was optional.
Bucket seats were standard. The steering wheel cover shown is not stock.
INTERIOR
The interior was updated for 1965, and the Morrokide upholstery for the seat and door panels was upgraded for the 2+2. Optional temperature and oil pressure gauges could be added to the revised instrument panel on each side of the horizontal speedometer. The included fuel gauge and ammeter were housed in round bezels at the center of the panel and an extra-cost clock could join them. An optional tach could be mounted on the upper left of the dash pad, and an accessory vacuum gauge could be added to the console.
CHASSIS
The new perimeter frame featured a 121-inch wheelbase. Unequal-length control arms, 90-lb-in ride rate coil springs, and a .875-inch anti-roll bar comprised the front suspension, while a four-link setup with 125-lb-in ride rate coils was in the rear. HD shocks were fore and aft. Optional power steering reduced effort and turns lock-to-lock. Finned 11-inch cast-iron drum brakes, 14 x 6-inch steel wheels, and 8.25 x 14 bias-ply tires were standard, and the track measured 63 inches front, 64 inches rear.
BODY
At 214.6 inches long, 79.6 inches wide and 54.4 inches high, the body was new from stem to stern, but it still retained its Pontiac identity with split grilles and stacked headlamps. The new fenders drew rearward at the sides of the headlamp bezels for a look of motion. Its curved side windows and Coke bottle body shape was more fluid than the 1964 design, and the sloped roofline made every Catalina hardtop look sporty. Its tail had a massive-yet-integrated bumper, and subtle taillamps were split by ribbed bright trim.
PRODUCTION
In a model year when the Pontiac Motor Division won the Motor Trend magazine Car of the Year Award, 11,521 2+2s were built. Production eclipsed the 7,998 built for 1964, the 6,383 for 1966, and 1,768 for 1967.
WHAT TO PAY*
Low | Average | High | |
---|---|---|---|
1965 Pontiac 2+2 hardtop | $9,500 | $17,500 | $43,000 |
1965 Pontiac 2+2 convertible | $17,500 | $24,000 | $53,000 |
Prices were compiled from popular value guides and recent auction sales.
*Add 25 percent for 356-hp engine; add 30 percent for 376-hp engine
When the extra-cost console was specified with the manual transmissions, its design was different than the one used with the automatic.
REPRODUCTION PARTS PRICES
Bucket seat covers (pair):$329
Door panels (pair): $349
Floorpan, front and rear (RH and LH, each): $115
Custom Sports simulated wood wheel (complete assembly): $469
Engine wiring harness: $160
Muncie four-speed rebuild kit: $199
Tri-Power carburetors (remanufactured, set of three): $1,895
Chrome rocker cover (pair): $129
Convertible top kit with glass window and pads: $465
Four-barrel chrome air cleaner assembly: $189
Rear window-to-trunk panel: $150
Recent
Photo: Ford Motor Company
So…you’re thinking about buying a Mustang, huh? Can we talk? Having the privilege (and curse) of owning nine late model Mustangs that span four generations, I understand. Have a seat, and let’s go for a drive…
I didn’t start out loving Mustangs. In fact, a few days from concluding high school classes my senior year, I was determined to buy an affordable car for college (and tinkering). Only stipulations: it had to be rear wheel drive and V-8 powered. Bonus points for three pedals. I found something a mile from my house that was within my budget (read: clapped out). It was a five-speed 1985 Mustang GT.
Author with his 1985 Ford Mustang GT.Photo: Wes Duenkel
My initial relationship with Mustangs was less of a love affair and more a marriage of convenience. Ever since that first Fox-body GT, Mustangs have repeatedly ticked the boxes of what I like: modest size, V-8 soundtrack, stick shift, and copious customization potential. Familiarity bred comfort. It’s only as I approach thirty years of Mustang ownership that I realize, “Huh, I really LIKE these things.”
It's from this perspective that I’ll share frank advice for novice late model Mustang shoppers.
By “late model,” I’m referring to 1979-current Mustangs. They span five generations and forty-five years: 1979-1993 (3rd generation), 1994-2004 (4th generation), 2005-2014 (5th generation), 2015-2023 (6th generation), and 2024-present (7th generation). Rather than discuss each generation individually, I’ll approach this from an attributes angle: What you’ll like about a Mustang…and what you’re probably going to hate about a Mustang.
(Note: we’re only going to discuss V-8 Mustangs because nobody cares about the others. Change my mind.)
Exterior Styling
Yeah, it’s subjective. Each Mustang generation has a “vibe.” You want to resist the urge to look back at your parked Mustang, not be embarrassed by it.
1979-1993: Fox-body
Photo: Hemmings Archives
The Fox Mustang styling is kinda polarizing. You love it or hate it. They’re boxy and edgy. As my teenage son’s friend quipped upon viewing his first Fox-body Mustang: “I’m not sure if this car is cool or ugly.” It’s both! If you’re into the Radwood scene, grew up careening down country roads at triple-digit speeds either in (or behind) a 1979-1993 Mustang, it’s going to bring back memories. That’s the point.
1994-2004: SN-95
Photo: Hemmings Archives
The SN-95-era Mustangs are aesthetically “husky.” While it structurally continued with the same chassis as the Fox, the SN-95 was complete rejection of the previous generation’s hard-edged design. There’s not a straight line on (or in) a 1994-'98 model Mustang. A facelift in 1999 brought some sharp creases back to the exterior sheet metal, but the interior was unchanged. Because the 4th generation continued with the 3rd generation’s underpinnings, SN95s are basically flabby (in both proportions and weight) Fox Mustangs. Wonky proportions notwithstanding, the styling resonates with some owners, and their popularity is starting to tick up.
2005-2014: S197
Photo: Bryan McTaggart
The S197-chassis Mustangs put 1960’s styling on a modern chassis. If you dig retro styling in a modern, roomier, and safer package, a 5th generation Mustang is for you. The 2005-'09 models “got the band back together” with body panels, lighting, and a greenhouse that isn’t just a nod to the 1965 Mustang—it’s a reunion tour. Sure, the guys put on a few pounds over the years, but their teeth are straighter and whiter, and they all stopped drinking. While it’s not the same old hellraiser, there’s a lot to like here. The 2010 Mustang got a facelift that was further updated again in 2013.
2015-2023: S550
Photo: Ford Motor Company
The S550-era Mustangs are the first of the breed to be officially sold worldwide and were designed to resonate with the diverse tastes of global buyers. It’s sleek and athletic. It was so good that its silhouette is visible in worldwide models from BMW and Kia. A 2018 facelift shrunk the schnoz a bit to improve both aerodynamics and aesthetics. It’s a very “safe” design that will likely age well. Where the S197 is an A-10 Warthog, the S550 is an F-16.
2024-Current: S650
Photo: Ford Motor Company
If you want a brand-new pony car straight off of the dealership lot, the S650 is your choice for Mustang. While the S650 is basically a continuation of the S550 chassis (see also: Fox to SN95 chassis), Ford’s stylists took the defeated Camaro as the pony car battle’s war bride, and the seventh-generation Mustang was spawned. Good thing or bad thing? You decide.
Interiors
If the interior isn’t a noisy, punishing sweatbox…is it still a Mustang? Discuss.
Fox-body
1980 Ford Mustang Ghia interior. Note the flat-faced Fairmont-inspired dashboard and fragile center console.
Photo: Bryan McTaggart
The Fox-body Mustang's ergonomics are notoriously bad. If you’re tall or short, a Fox Mustang is not a fun place to be. Lanky drivers can’t slide the seat back far enough, and short drivers can’t reach the shifter. The steering wheel generally faces the door handle and can’t tilt if it’s an air bag-equipped 1990 and newer model. All the seats are soft and unsupportive by current standards. 1979-1986 models have a boxy dashboard and a wire-thin steering wheel. 1987-1993 models got an updated (and iconic) interior with a surprisingly long dashboard storage tray so your spare change and Blockbuster Video membership card slides around in corners more than the live rear axle. If you don’t know what either of those are, this is only the tip of the iceberg of surprises awaiting uninformed Fox Mustang shoppers.
1987-up Mustangs featured a face-lifted interior. Those cupholders are an aftermarket addition, taking the place of the ashtray.
Photo: Hemmings Archives
No, there ain’t any cupholders for your iced coffee, Karen. But if you’re of average proportions, outward visibility is refreshingly good and the back seats are surprisingly comfortable. There’s even an ashtray back there. The interiors on Fox Mustangs are cosmetically and structurally plastic—most of which is either cracked and broken…or will be soon. A Fox Mustang creaks, rattles, and twists like a pirate ship full of empty spray cans in a windstorm. Speaking of wind: there’s lots of that noise too. And if your Fox Mustang has some type of hole in the roof—be it a sunroof, T-tops, or (thoughts and prayers) a convertible, not all water will stay on the outside. If your Fox Mustang hasn’t had its heater core changed yet, then know that coolant can (and will) leak from there, too.
SN-95
The SN-95 interior and its 1960s Mustang-inspired "dual cowl" treatment was first previewed on the 1992 Mach III concept car.
Photo: Hemmings Archive
SN-95 Mustangs inherited the weird ergonomics of the Fox generation and added droopy plastic that melts around you like a shop class vacuum forming project. The optional leather seats cracked just looking at them, so don’t be surprised if the seating surfaces look like Clint Eastwood’s face when you trapse across his lawn. (Aftermarket seats go a long way to increasing comfort and aesthetics in one fell swoop.) The 4th generation’s arched greenhouse makes taller drivers even more miserable than they are in a Fox Mustang, with rear headroom suffering the most. The interior is quieter than the Fox, with less wind noise and more sound deadening, which means you can hear more of the interior panels creaking. But hey, at least there are cupholders.
S197
The S197 retained the dual-cowl theme but didn't leave the front passengers feeling claustrophobic. Certain models had adjustable gauge backlighting, allowing drivers to change colors as they pleased.
Photo: Hemmings Archives
The S197 Mustangs silenced many gripes with previous generations. Pre-production focus groups got us a vastly updated interior with a steering wheel that actually faces the driver, a reachable shifter, seats that don’t fall apart, and a roof that accommodates tall people. The standard seats are “meh,” so the optional Recaro seats are a plus. The back seats are sunk down far enough to yield good headroom so your passengers can ponder why they’re sitting atop a live rear axle rather than an independent rear suspension… but I digress. The throwback styling continues with the dual-cockpit dash pad and gauge cluster. The modern engineering and manufacturing techniques yielded massive strides in eliminating interior panel creaks and rattles and you can hold spousal discussion without shouting (at least over the wind and road noise). After you tire of arguing with your spouse, you can do the same with the SYNC system. Don’t worry: SYNC won’t understand you either. At least the cupholders are well-designed.
S550
The S550 Mustang's interior was an evolution of the S197's overall design - clean, functional, and driver-focused.
Photo: Ford Motor Company
S550 Mustangs have a more immersive cockpit over the previous generation, where drivers feel more “in” the car versus “on” it. While it accommodates the driver and front passenger as well as the S197 Mustang, even average-height adults’ heads are squished against the sloping back glass if passengers are banished to the back seats of an S550 Mustang. The center stack has an infotainment system that is less irritating than previous offerings. A digital gauge cluster was optional on later models, which is either cool or gimmicky depending upon your attraction to tech. Again, the optional Recaros are brilliant. Get them if you can. Thick glass, copious sound deadening, and a creak-free instrument panel make the inside of an S550 very quiet pleasant. Aside from contemporary sports-car-style outward visibility, there’s not much average buyers would complain about. Weird.
S650
The S650 enters the modern era with screens. Gauges can be changed, including a late-1980s Fox Mustang-themed design and a 1968 Mustang-inspired layout.
Photo: Ford Motor Company
S650 Mustangs feature a more “driver focused” cockpit with big screens that replace much of the mechanical switch gear. Utility and functionality is debatable. Fortunately, when you start actually driving the thing, it’s very much business as usual from the previous generation S550 Mustang. The greenhouse is a structural carryover, so all that’s good (and bad) with the S550 continues with the S650…including the optional Recaro seats. The park brake handle perseveres, but it’s now connected by wire to electric rear park brake calipers. The result is the park brake handle action is springy and lifeless—unless you use it in “drift brake” mode. Grab those cell phones and step away from the curbs, folks.
Driving Experience
Aside from looking at or sitting in a Mustang, the allure of Ford’s pony car is about driving it, right? Strap in... and try not to die.
Fox-body
Courtesy of MotorWeek
These Mustangs drive like 1980’s econoboxes with too much torque, because that's exactly what they are. If you’re expecting blissful performance from a Fox Mustang, prepare to be disappointed. Just remember the famous quote, “Never meet your heroes.” Scores of Mustangs ended their lives (and sadly, the lives of their occupants) wrapped around roadside objects because the drivers didn’t respect the limits of themselves, the cars, or the drivers around them. 1979-1993 Mustangs aren’t bad, it's just that they’ve been hyped up so much that drivers have forgotten how miserable cars were back in the 1980’s. Over-boosted steering, squishy subpar brakes, stiff clutches, schizophrenic handling, harsh ride - this was all typical. And Mustangs were not the worst offenders (I’m looking at you, GM F-body!) A chassis designed for the 55-mile-per-hour speed limit is glaringly out of its element on 70+ miles per hour highway speeds. But getting to the double nickel is a hoot! Squeeze the gas on the five-oh and woah, you’ve buried that speedo needle. Speaking of “woah,” don’t expect the brakes to save you. Most Fox Mustangs only had 11-inch discs on the front and puny drums in the rear. (Cue the Mustang geeks arguing in the comments about the outliers with rear discs.) If things go bad, only 1990-1993 Mustangs have a driver’s side air bag…and it’s unlikely that it still works.
If you’re expecting a Fox Mustang to knock your socks off, that depends upon how rough the pavement is. Some buy a 4th generation Mustang expecting legendary performance and are sorely disappointed. Stock Fox Mustangs barely crack 200 horsepower. With about 3,300 pounds to lug around and plenty of low-end torque to do the lugging, they roast the puny 225mm-wide tires readily. But once the needle gets past 4,000 RPM, it’s a snooze-fest. Doubly so if the 5.0 is mated to an automatic slush box. The popularity of centrifugal supercharging and it’s top-end kick makes sense after driving a bone-stock Mustang five-liter: boost picks up where the factory power curve noses over.
But driving isn’t all about speed, right? Add some Flowmaster mufflers and you’ll sound cool while hustling up the onramp. You’re going to hear it anyway. The windows are rolled down because the air conditioning probably doesn’t work.
SN-95
Courtesy of MotorWeek
1990s Mustangs drive like mature Fox-body Mustangs, so if you can stomach the styling, SN-95 Mustangs are more enjoyable than a Fox. With more weight comes less noise, vibration, and harshness. The air conditioning might even still work. While the first two years carried over the trusty five-oh pushrod engine, 1996-2004 models featured Ford’s 4.6-liter, overhead cam, modular V-8 engine. Even if the early “mod” motors were disappointments from a horsepower and torque perspective, they certainly are smoother and remain extremely reliable. At least all the bolts were finally metric.
Strides in safety are significant over the Fox Mustang, too. Driver and passenger-side air bags, anti-lock brakes, and optional (and primitive) traction control make SN-95s less lethal.
After leaving niche “high performance” variants to specialists like Saleen, Ford offered an in-house low-volume model: the Mustang Cobra. These Mustangs offer performance and a driving experience that’s significantly better than their GT counterparts in every way. Pricing aside, there’s no reason not to opt for a Cobra over a GT. Each subsequent Cobra offered more performance than the last, especially in the braking department.
The 2003-2004 Mustang Cobra aside, SN95 Mustangs are very slow. Especially if there’s only two pedals. All automatic transmissions in these cars were buzz killers. You can’t expect to win any stoplight duels with an SN95 Mustang, but that doesn’t mean they’re not fun to drive. Sometimes driving a slow car fast is more rewarding than driving a fast car slowly. (At least, that’s my excuse.)
S197
Courtesy of Adam Kriete
The S197 Mustangs weren’t much faster than the outgoing model because the added horsepower and torque was offset with more weight. It wasn’t until the 2011 model where Mustang got the engine it arguably deserved: the five-liter “Coyote” V-8. With over 400 horsepower on tap, the Coyote really transformed the Mustang’s reputation from plucky puppy dog to an outright Doberman Pinscher. Mated with a six-speed manual gearbox, Coyote-powered Mustangs hurt feelings—and tires. Power discrepancies aside, all S197 Mustangs offer a driving experience that’s leaps and bounds ahead of anything before. Credit goes to a modern chassis where engineers weren’t forced to make as many compromises. Even the live rear axle (retained for reasons that remain debatable) was adequately tamed. Ford finally did a thing!
The 2005-2014 Mustang’s steering feels decent, you can skip leg day and still operate the clutch, the shifter knob easily falls in hand, and the V-8 soundtrack remains. The stiff chassis really pays dividends on rough roads: approaching potholes or bridge transitions is not a sphincter-stressing experience. Safety is enhanced with multiple air bags, modern brakes, and extremely effective traction control and anti-lock brakes. If safety is a priority (which it always should be) then I strongly recommend an S197 Mustang. There’s a lot to like. The biggest change (in my mind) was the five-speed automatic transmission doesn’t completely ruin the driving experience with sluggish performance. But get the stick anyway.
S550
Photo: Hemmings Archives
These Mustangs are a joy to drive. Tons of power, responsive chassis responses, fabulous brakes, engaging driving position, and sure-footed handling make the S550 Mustang a go-to recommendation for the casual Mustang owner. It offers the most rewarding driving experience for the average driver partly because it requires the fewest compromises. The S550 Mustang is a highway weapon. My snark switch is turned off because it’s a great car to drive. Steering feedback could be better and the brakes less boosted, but these are a matter of preference rather than failings. The quiet cabin allows the exhaust sound to dominate the driving experience. While the automatic transmission options don’t suck, the manual gearboxes are so good you’re missing out by opting for two pedals. If you’re sitting in the Recaro seats, you’re going to love it even more. Clearer communication from the chassis to your torso transforms the driving experience more than you’d expect.
S650
Photo: Hemmings Archives
Mustangs carry on the theme from the previous generation by retaining much of the same running gear. Steering feel is improved with a shaft that eliminates a rubber isolator. If you close your eyes while driving (not recommended), you’d be hard-pressed to differentiate between the S650 and S550 chassis—and that’s a good thing.
Service and Reliability
While a Mustang might be great to look at and drive, is it a headache to own and maintain? Is it going to strand you? Yes. No. Maybe.
Fox-body
Photo: Hemmings
Fox Mustangs are old cars by now—and they have old car problems. Fluid leaks (exacerbated by the popularity of synthetic lubricants) are all but guaranteed. “If there ain’t oil under it, there ain’t oil in it.” Valve covers, rear main seals, and oil pan gaskets weep with age. Rubber seals, once supple and compliant, are now shrunken and brittle. 1980’s electronics are also beyond their service life, as many of the components, such as capacitors, are leaking and no longer have their, uh, capacitor-ness. Some of these magic boxes (such as the fuel injection computer) are available rebuilt from the aftermarket—but some (like the air bag diagnostic module) are currently unobtanium. That blinking air bag light is going to be a fact of life. Refrigerant for the air conditioning is no longer available, so reviving the A/C is not easy if you don’t like sweating. Don’t get me wrong: a Fox Mustang can still be a reliable daily driver, but if much of it is original, bring tools. If reaching your destination without turning a wrench as an accomplishment, then a Fox Mustang is for you. But if you (or your wife) is in labor, don’t drive the Fox. Much of the reliability of a Fox Mustang is a function of how it was treated or how much has been replaced or updated. Fortunately, Fox Mustangs are very simple and conventional. You don’t need fancy diagnostic devices or special tools to work on them. If you’re ambitions, crafty, and bored—a Fox Mustang is a great project. However, if you’re not a do-it-yourselfer, a Fox Mustang will keep your mechanic busy and your wallet empty. So unless you like spinning your own wrenches, find something newer.
SN-95
Photo: Hemmings Archives
Mid-'90s Mustangs are less of an ownership gamble than the previous generation. Through the decade of production the SN-95 Mustang got updated components that brought contemporary reliability. 1996-up OBD-II diagnostics made tracking down basic issues a bit easier, and the modular V-8 engine family (also in 1996-up models) reduced fluid leaks. Air conditioning did away with the old freon refrigerant and is more serviceable. However, the large physical size of the modular V-8s makes servicing anything out of arm’s reach challenging. Be prepared to cuss... a lot. Years of ethanol-spiked fuels have taken their toll on these early fuel systems, so failed fuel pumps are common. With Fox and SN-95 Mustangs, mileage is less of a factor than outright age. Speaking of mileage: if a prospective SN-95 Mustang has a mechanical odometer (1994-1998), don’t trust what it says. The gears on these units often disintegrated years ago, and the odometers no longer track miles. Wonderful.
S197
Photo: Hemmings Archives
These Mustangs are less “classic cars” and more “used cars” at the moment. With this generation, milage is a larger factor over outright age. If a 2005-2010 three-valve V-8 Mustang is making noise, chances are it’s the timing components. It’s a common issue, and replacement parts are plentiful. When test driving an S197 Mustang, typical used car buying logic applies: if your senses suggest something doesn’t look, feel, sound, or smell right, have it checked out or find a better Mustang. The S197 chassis is the roomiest of the modern generations, so working on a 2005-2014 Mustang is a breeze. Modern assembly techniques focused on speed and cost mean fasteners are few and easily accessible. The aftermarket is awash in parts for these cars, making the S197 Mustang is also a great “first Mustang project.” You’re going to spend less time fixing broken stuff and more time making the Mustang faster or louder (and maybe both)!
S550
Photo: Hemmings Archives
Mustangs are more sophisticated and confined than the previous generation, but everything is in the same spot and is built similarly. The biggest departure chassis-wise is the independent rear suspension (IRS). It’s significantly more complex than the live rear axle—good thing the IRS is robust. The S550’s engine compartment is more confined than the S197’s, but if you have small hands or patience, it’s not too bad. Fluid connections are mostly a click-together affair, so that’s a plus. S550 Mustangs are young and plentiful, meaning finding one that’s clean and straight is not difficult. Effort in pre-purchase inspection will yield dividends in service and reliability for years to come.
S650
2024-current “S650” Mustangs are new and under warranty. Enough said.
The Bottom Line
Photo: Hemmings
Spanning 45 years, "late model" Mustangs have something for everyone. If you’re a crafty do-it-yourselfer, want people to chat you up at stoplights, and don’t care if something breaks along the way…shopping for a 1979-1993 Mustang is for you. If you’ll take flabby styling in exchange for a slightly more refined driving experience, enhanced reliability, and a classic soundtrack…consider a 1994-2004 Mustang. Looking for a great project car with retro aesthetics but modern performance that won’t strand you or break the bank? A 2005-2014 Mustang is on your list. If you’re new to Mustang ownership, want to drive it daily and experience what makes the internal combustion V-8 engine the greatest mechanical contraption in human history…find a 2015-2023 Mustang. If you want a new Mustang because it’s, well, new: the 2024 Mustang is it.
Glad we had this chat. Welcome to the Mustang cult.
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Buyer's Guides
RPO Z06 Makes the New-For-’63 Chevrolet Corvette Sting Ray Race Ready and Extremely Valuable
Photo: GM Media Archives
Due to changing external forces, General Motors had a fickle relationship with factory-backed racing in the 1950s and 1960s, and the corporation was ostensibly keeping motorsports at arm’s length when the second-generation Corvette was nearing its debut. This didn’t stop the engineers behind Chevrolet’s sports car from designing and building the specialty parts the new Sting Ray would need to establish dominance in competition. The Regular Production Option code Z06 was selected for 199 coupes, and surviving examples of that limited production run are considered the most coveted and valuable road-legal 1963 Corvettes in existence.
Regardless of what the official GM policy on racing was at the time, the Corvette team had long been actively encouraging motorsports and the glory that brought to this model and Chevrolet as a whole. Privateers who wanted to compete in their 1962 roadsters could specify RPO 687 to gain heavy-duty suspension and braking components, as well as a quicker steering ratio and 37-gallon fuel tank; ticking the RPO 582 box brought a 360-horsepower 327-cu.in. V-8 topped with Rochester mechanical fuel injection. Versions of these special upgrades would have a place in the new-for-’63 Sting Ray as well, for a time similarly bundled under RPO Z06, a.k.a. “Special Performance Equipment.”
Selecting this, a racing hopeful had to lay out a not-insubstantial $1,818.45 ($18,110 in today’s money) atop the $4,038 (circa $40,210) MSRP of a 1963 Corvette coupe that was also optioned with the L84 fuel-injected 360-hp V-8 ($430.40, or $4,285), four-speed manual transmission ($188.30, or $1,875), and Positraction limited-slip differential ($43.05, or $429). Later in the year, Chevrolet lowered the Z06 package cost to $1,293.56 ($12,880) by making the initially included cast-aluminum knock-off wheels and 36.5-gallon fuel tank —RPO P48 and N03—into standalone options. Even in its most basic form, a Z06-equipped 1963 Sting Ray was an expensive car.
And it has always been one, especially from the mid-2000s when retail book values shot up exponentially. Classic.com has been tracking the values of many variants of Chevy’s sports car for the past five years, and non-Z06-equipped 1963 models now sell at auction for an average sum just under $160,000. The Z06 variant is a special case, and although the website currently considers the ’63 Corvette Z06 to be a declining market benchmark at $510,165, it has hardly reached bargain-basement status—the current average public-sale price as of press time is $531,154. Thirteen Z06s have sold at auction since August 2019, with the least expensive being a coupe that changed hands via Mecum in Houston for $235,000 in April 2023, and the priciest being a sub-5,400-mile original that commanded $1,242,500 (the pre-sale estimate was $750,000-$900,000) at Gooding & Company’s Amelia Island event in March 2022. These figures handily outstrip current retail book values that range between $219,000 and $447,500.
Value Trend - 1963 Chevrolet Corvette RPO Z06
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